Brand History: origins of the jeans

Brand History: origins of the jeans

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De allereerste spijkerbroeken kwamen uit de fabrieken van Levi Strauss. Levi’s blijkt nog steeds het bekendste merk te zijn met als populairste model de vrijwel onveranderd gebleven Levi’s 501. Andere grote merken werden Lee en Wrangler, die op prijs en kwaliteit stevig concurreerden met de jeans van Levi Strauss & Co. De laatste jaren verschijnen er duurdere merken, zoals het Japanse Evisu en van mode-ontwerpers als Calvin Klein en Armani en het modeconcern Gucci.



De Levi’s 501


De eerste modellen Levi’s spijkerbroeken werden 501 genoemd, naar het nummer van de allereerste lading blauwe katoen uit het Franse Nîmes. In feite werd de 501-spijkerbroek de voorloper van alle jeans. Kenmerkend voor het oorspronkelijke model waren de knoopjessluiting, de wijdte rond de heupen, de rechte smalle pijpen en de lage broekband. Na een tijdje stapten de jeansdragers over op de broeken met eenzipper (ritssluiting) en volgden trends op het gebied van pijpen die achtereenvolgens wijd, superwijd, recht, strak en superstrak werden. De Levi’s 501 is van 1873 tot 1984 vrijwel onveranderd gebleven. Elke broek werd genaaid van een lap denim die precies 71 cm breed was, waardoor de zogeheten zelfkanten aan de buitenzijde van de pijpen vielen. Door het witte streepje stof in die zelfkanten liep een eenvoudig rood stiksel. Wanneer je de zoom omsloeg werd dit streepje zichtbaar. Het werd het handelsmerk van Levi’s. Sinds 1984 wordt de 501 niet meer vervaardigd op de -honderd jaar oude en 71 cm brede- weefgetouwen van Cone Nills in San Francisco (zie afbeelding rechts). Vanaf die tijd worden de Levi’s van bredere denim gemaakt op grotere weefgetouwen. Dat betekent dat deze broeken geen zelfkant met rood stiksel meer hebben. De originele 501 is een collectors item geworden.



Levi Strauss overleed in 1902. Tien jaar later ging zijn opvolger zich naast de spijkerbroek ook op andere kledingstukken richten. Simon, de zoon van Jacob Davis (die de toevoegingen van de klinknagels bedacht), begon met een lijn voor kinderkleding. Decoveralls werden een succes, omdat kinderen lekker konden spelen zonder hun andere kleren vuil te maken. Het dragen van werkkleding werd populair, ook buiten de VS. Het traditionele Franse bleu de travail (blauwe werkkleding) bijvoorbeeld, bestond uit eenzelfde serie kledingstukken die op het land en in de werkplaatsen werd gedragen. De Franse broeken en jasjes leken veel op de pakken die ze in communistisch China droegen: de Mao-pakken. Vanaf 1949 werden deze pakken massaal geproduceerd in blauwe, grijsblauwe en grijsgroene katoen.

De concurrentie

Lee is het eerste merk dat vanaf 1889 Levi Strauss beconcurreert. De fabriek had een groot deel van de markt voor cowboybroeken in handen. De ‘Lee Rider cowboypants’ werd in 1920 het standaardmerk van Lee (zie afbeelding rechts). Vanaf 1926 verwerkte Lee als eerste in plaats van knopen een rits in de gulp. Wrangler dateert van 1947 als de verkoop van spijkerbroeken over de hele wereld toeneemt. Dit merk dankt zijn succes aan tests uitgevoerd door rodeorijders en maakt sindsdien naam als het gaat om duurzaamheid en kwaliteit. Grof gezegd waren er begin jaren zestig van de vorige eeuw dus drie merken spijkerbroeken die in hoog aanzien stonden: Lee, Wrangler en Levi Strauss. Hoewel het plaatselijk verschilde, waren vooral Lee en Wrangler betrekkelijk gemakkelijk verkrijgbare merken. Later gingen deze twee bedrijven samen, maar bleven wel alle twee de merken afzonderlijk produceren. Levi’s was veel moeilijker verkrijgbaar en kreeg waarschijnlijk daardoor het imago er alleen voor de welgestelden te zijn. Kenmerk van de drie grote merken was, dat de broeken bij aankoop zo hard als een plank waren. Om ze soepel te krijgen moesten ze eerst een aantal malen gewassen worden, waardoor de indigotint hoe langer hoe valer werd. Op zich was dat niet erg, want hoe valer de broek was, hoe beter hij stond, vond men in het algemeen.

Duurdere merken

Levi’s mag dan de meest verkochte jeans ter wereld zijn, maar wordt toch niet als de mooiste en beste spijkerbroek gezien. Dat is volgens kenners de duurdere Japanse Evisu, genoemd naar de Boeddhistische god van de welvaart. Deze broek is gemaakt van de duurste en dikste met de hand geweven denim. De stof wordt wel dertig maal achter elkaar met de hand in indigobaden gewassen, waardoor de broek ook na veelvuldig dragen en wassen niet veel lichter wordt. Verder zijn de Evisubroeken met tweekleurige stiksels afgewerkt, de zakken gevoerd en de knopen met de hand gemaakt. Maar het meest in het oog springende detail is het logo: een gekantelde E die op de achterzak met witte of gele draad is geborduurd. De bedenker van de Evisu-spijkerbroek is de ambachtelijke kleermaker Hidehiko Yamane. Speciaal voor deze broek zette hij een privéplantage op van indigo. Ook kocht hij de oude en ongebruikte weefgetouwen en machines van Levi’s op om zo de jeans op originele manier te vervaardigen. Voor enkele honderden euro’s kun je zelf bepalen hoe je de broek wilt hebben gemaakt: van de kleur van de stiksels tot en met de dikte van het denim en de opdruk (zie afbeelding links). Het merk kwam in 1990 in Japan op de markt. Vanaf 1998 is Evisu ook in een aantal zorgvuldig geselecteerde winkels in grote Europese steden te koop en verder online. Popsterren als Madonna en George Michael waren één van de eerste bekende personen die een Evisu droegen.

Het kan nog gekker wat de prijs betreft. Diverse mode-ontwerpers zoals Calvin Klein en Giorgio Armani hebben zich de laatste jaren ook op de jeansmarkt gestort. Hun jeans worden van duur Indiase denim gemaakt, dat enkele tientallen euro’s per meter kost. En dat, terwijl de materiaalprijs van de meeste spijkerbroeken enkele euro’s per meter bedraagt. Bij de exclusieve jeans zijn de knopen van edelmetaal gemaakt en als de klant bereid is enkele duizenden euro’s neer te tellen, dan zitten er op elke knoop witte diamantjes. Ondanks deze gigantisch hoge prijzen is het toch een Levi’s die de tot nu toe oudst overgebleven en duurste spijkerbroek ooit is. De broek stamt uit 1880, is opgegraven in de modder van een mijnstadje in Nevada, destijds gekocht voor $1,25 en anoniem verkocht via de internet veilingsite eBay voor $46,532 dollar aan het Levi Strauss & Co. Museum in San Francisco!
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